So my friends convinced me to try to surf-Beer was included they said-How could I resist.
Only problem was I didn't have a board. To earn my keep they gave me a camera to snap them in action. I must say I do take a good Photo! Now it was finally my turn to surf-
The break was on White Crest Beach Wellfleet, MA(photos soon) Now let me preface this by saying I just had knee surgery 2 months prior, So I wasn't expecting much.
TheMormon-let me use his 10ft lightweight performance board-not much girth.
Oh yeah I am 6' 5" 250 lbs+.
First lesson learned-Never/Ever let your board loose to tighten your board shorts. Smack! right into my ribs-they would hurt much more later!!! I brushed this off-if I stopped I would never live it down. After some near misses, I settled into the lineup-Adog screamed take this one-I turned and paddled arduously(I felt the burn of being sedentary for 2 months), mother nature took over. I could feel the surge of the wave take hold of the board, I held on and tried to Pop up onto the board-my knee had other plans-the answer was NO. I was content to let the board do the work for me and rode the wave to the beach. Before I jumped off the board I felt the Stoke of the ride and knew I was Hooked--
Oh The 4 Pacifico Bottles capped off the perfect day.
Now when and where to get the next Stoke?
Only problem was I didn't have a board. To earn my keep they gave me a camera to snap them in action. I must say I do take a good Photo! Now it was finally my turn to surf-
The break was on White Crest Beach Wellfleet, MA(photos soon) Now let me preface this by saying I just had knee surgery 2 months prior, So I wasn't expecting much.
TheMormon-let me use his 10ft lightweight performance board-not much girth.
Oh yeah I am 6' 5" 250 lbs+.
First lesson learned-Never/Ever let your board loose to tighten your board shorts. Smack! right into my ribs-they would hurt much more later!!! I brushed this off-if I stopped I would never live it down. After some near misses, I settled into the lineup-Adog screamed take this one-I turned and paddled arduously(I felt the burn of being sedentary for 2 months), mother nature took over. I could feel the surge of the wave take hold of the board, I held on and tried to Pop up onto the board-my knee had other plans-the answer was NO. I was content to let the board do the work for me and rode the wave to the beach. Before I jumped off the board I felt the Stoke of the ride and knew I was Hooked--
Oh The 4 Pacifico Bottles capped off the perfect day.
Now when and where to get the next Stoke?
4 comments:
surf's up dude
Rock on brother! Good to have you on the waves.
Awesome page brother. Link me up
- Ando, B-Town Surf!
Awesome "almost" first wave... Im glad I was there to witness it...
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