Posted by TheMormon--http://bostonbikeskateandsurf.blogspot.com/
I was going through photos on my computer and stumbled on some from the first time I went surfing back in September 2003. This was also the first year that I rented a house in Wellfleet for two weeks, which has since become a yearly tradition. Ando and the Surf Ninja had been trying to get me out on the waves for most of the vacation, but with a healthy fear of the ocean (from nearly drowning twice) I politely declined. Finally, on the last day of the trip, I decided to give it a try.
When we arrived at White Crest Beach, the swell rolling in was big, clean & strong. It was an absolutely perfect day; sunny, clear with temps in the low 80’s. As I stood on top of the dune looking down at the waves, I honestly thought that I was going to die. From the top you could hear the waves pounding against the outer sandbar. The waves were easily 8 to 10 feet at the point, then reforming from 3 to 6 feet after breaking.
Ando lent me one his boards, an 8’9” Spectrum (which was later willed too me, then willed to my brother Matt) and off I went into the surf. Both Ando & Surf Ninja gave me some advice & pointers, but it was up to me to catch a wave. For a good solid two hours I got my ass kicked. There were a few times that I thought I was going to get up, only to wipeout. As you can imagine, it happened quite a bit.
Myself, Ando & the Surf Ninja, one week after my 1st ride, Sept. 2003.The day wore on and I got progressively more tired. However, I was determined to ride at least one wave before I gave up. The Surf Ninja was next to me and said that I was right on the cusp of catching one, just keep at it. Then he jumped on the next wave and rode it right to the shore. As always with him, it was an impressive ride.
After watching the Surf Ninja’s ride, I told myself that the next was mine. I saw it coming and started paddling. I paddled hard, felt the wave grab the board, I gave it one more dig, then the wave swept me up and off I went. While in the wave I got up on one knee, wobbling back and forth, but not wiping out, yet. I could hear the Surf Ninja yelling at me, as he was paddling out, to get up. He was screaming like a Drill Sergeant for me to get up, so I stood up. I still couldn’t believe that I was riding a wave, without falling over. I was waddling like a duck walking across a street, but I still hadn’t wiped out. My ride seemed like it lasted forever, then I ran out of ocean. I jumped off the board, fell on my knees & let out a shout like I had just scored a game winning goal in overtime. The joy & excitement that came over me is known by every surfer who catches their first wave. I looked back out towards where the Surf Ninja was at, arms raised over his head in celebration at my triumph. Yes, I was hooked and I know knew what it was like to be stoked. Thus began a love affair that continues to this day. Until next time…Aloha!
